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  • Batterys

    Yes I have a 2013 yamaha drive 48volt ,, ok I hooked my volt meter up to battery pack to check voltage drop. Standing still shows 51 volts under acceleration volts go up too 100 volts. ?

  • #2
    Greetings! So you've got a Yamaha Drive 48V, and you're seeing some voltage fluctuations? Well, we can sort that out by checking the health of each battery individually through the process of load testing.

    First things first, you need to get your hands on a battery load tester. We want to make sure each battery gets its fair shot at the test, so disconnect them from the pack. But first, label each connection and take photos of the setup before removal, this guarantees we're not mixing up anything between the batteries and the connections.

    Now, grab your load tester. Connect the load tester to one battery at a time following the instructions. Once it's hooked up, engage the load tester. It'll start drawing some power from the battery, just like your golf cart does when it's in action. While the load tester is doing its thing, keep an eye on the voltage reading using a voltmeter. Repeat this process for each battery. We're looking for any significant drops in voltage compared to the others. If one battery isn't holding up as well under the load, it might be the issue behind your voltage problem.

    Overall, load testing might seem really technical, but it's a straightforward way to figure out which battery might need a replacement. Hope that helps clear things up a bit. If you've got more questions or need a hand, just give me a shout.

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    • #3
      I load tested each battery and also checked specific gravity of each battery cell ok while driving with multi meter connected to read pack voltage will go over 100 volts on acceleration

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      • #4
        Posted earlier by Mikesnortj View Post
        I load tested each battery and also checked specific gravity of each battery cell ok while driving with multi meter connected to read pack voltage will go over 100 volts on acceleration
        Would you happen to have some backstory leading up to the load test? Is the cart running good otherwise? Just to confirm, make sure the voltmeter set to measure DC voltage. (This setting is usually indicated by a "V" with a dashed line and a solid line above it) with your black probe plugged into the com port, and red into VΩmA port. Once your meter is set to the correct setting, you'll use alligator-clip probes to measure the voltage across the two main battery posts while driving up a hill.

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        • #5
          Yes its set volts DC have lost a lot iof range, load tested and checked specific gravity of each sell good can hook meter up to each individual battery and load test driving lowest goes is 7.5

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          • #6
            I don't know why a bad battery would cause voltage to go so high

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            • #7
              Posted earlier by Mikesnortj View Post
              I don't know why a bad battery would cause voltage to go so high
              Hey, so if you notice your golf cart's acting funky with occasional voltage spikes, it could be that one or more batteries are totally slacking or on their last legs! That's like a big deal cause it messes with the whole voltage regulation. And if your batteries are, say, around 4-5 years old or you've been draining them below 8 volts each a bunch, they're basically telling you they're ready to retire. An 8 volt lead acid battery rests at around 8.50 volts when it's fully juiced up, but if it's dipping below 8 volts, that's when you gotta start thinking about gettin new ones. And if it's sagging to like 7.5 volts under load, yeah, it's definitely time to dip out and grab some fresh batteries.

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              • #8
                I had bad batteries in the past and have never seen pack voltage go over a 100 volts on acceleration? I ve check pack voltage on numerous carts with bad batteries and also shows low voltage. Could Regen cause this

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                • #9
                  Its not very common, but I suppose it could occur if there are faults or malfunctions in the motor's control circuitry or if there is erroneous feedback from the vehicle's sensors. If there's a problem with these windings, such as a short circuit or insulation breakdown, it could indeed lead to voltage spikes during acceleration. When you step on the pedal to accelerate, the motor draws more current to provide the necessary power. If there's a fault in the windings, this increased current flow could cause irregularities in the electrical signals, resulting in those voltage spikes you're experiencing.

                  Before we jump to conclusions about the motor windings we need to consider a few other factors. For instance, have we thoroughly checked the wires connected to the motor for any signs of breakage or corrosion? Sometimes, a simple issue like a loose or corroded/broken wire connection or grounding issues can cause electrical irregularities. Additionally, let's not forget about the battery health. You mentioned that one of your 8 volt batteries is showing a voltage of 7.5 volts. That's a red flag! An 8 volt battery should ideally never be discharged below 8 volts. When a battery is discharged beyond its recommended threshold, it can lead to permanent damage and affect its health over time.

                  While issues with the motor windings could cause voltage spikes we need to perform a detailed inspection of the electrical system including the connections and battery health beforehand, then consider checking the motor for irregularities, like using a multimeter set to measure resistance to check the continuity of the motor windings by probing each terminal pair or measuring the motor's current draw to check if it falls within the expected range.

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                  • #10
                    Ok thanks I'll let you know what I find

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                    • #11
                      Posted earlier by Mikesnortj View Post
                      Ok thanks I'll let you know what I find
                      Great, if you haven't already, during your load test (such as driving up a hill), try taking voltage readings from the large posts on the controller labeled as (pos) and (neg), instead of the battery mains. Doing so should help eliminate any potential "noise" you might inadvertently pick up from the solenoid.

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