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2005 IQ Club Car Won't Go

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  • 2005 IQ Club Car Won't Go

    Hello, I have stock Club Car S/N AQ0515-493566 that is driving me crazy. When I press on the go pedal all the way down I hear the mcor microswitch click, but the car will sit there for up to a minute, then I hear the solenoid click, but no movement. I keep the pedal pressed down and wait 15 to 60 seconds or so and hear the solenoid click again, sometimes the wheels will just turn a few inches, then nothing. Keeping the pedal down, wait another minute and the car might spin the tires a few seconds, then nothing.

    With full charge and clean cables I have 52.48v, and I perform good regular maintenance on the batteries. I've tried jumpering the solenoid with no change (same symptoms). I bought a new solenoid last year and put it in, still had these same symptoms. But last year if I kept the pedal pressed the car would eventually take off and move. It might take up to five minutes of sitting there, but eventually it took off and would often behave fine for a while. While it was moving never a problem, but when you stopped and went to start again, it had a 50% chance of moving again immediately, or sitting there for a while before it decided to take off!

    That was last year, but now it seems worse. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    If you download the schematic from this site you will find that OBC send ground to the controller, MCOR output both switch and pot to controller And then the controller controls the solenoid. 1 of those is where your problem will be.

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    • #3
      relentles,
      I have a '05 CC Precedent that was suffering from the almost same symtoms that you are having. Gaminde is an electrical genius and he helped me trace my problem back to the MCOR (limit switch, not the pot.) I would suggest that you take the time to test out the MCOR limit switch before you go to much further. If you'd like you can send me an e-male at kwpearson@izoom.net and I can send you a copy of the Club Car MCOR replacement procedure that I got with my new MCOR. The interesting thing I noticed in this MCOR replacement prcedure is that "club car" has listed a "drain" and "ventilation" hole modification. That tells me that "club car" has realized that there is a "moisture" problem going on in the brake peddle/accellerator well. My point is that my MCOR limit switch would "click" when I pressed down the accellerator but the contacts were failing to make contact. And if the MCOR limit switch is not made up and completes the circuit back to the motor controller the solenoid will not close in.

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      • #4
        Thanks for the advice guys. What disturbs me the most is that when I hold the pedal down without moving, the solenoid will usually eventually click on, then off fairly soon after. This is with the cart now on stands and the pedal held down, so there is no further movement or anything that would cause any contacts to engage. So why would the mcor ever engage? I will investigate and reply back on what I find.

        gaminde, is there a way to prevent sparks when reconnecting the battery 6 terminal? I put the cart in neutral, key off, tow switch on, and still get a disturbing spark when I put the negative cable back on.

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        • #5
          Yes sparks disturb me also You must have unit in tow mode to connect batterys You will blow a controller if not. You need to check both parts of the mcor I think if you jump the switch. The solenoid still will not engage untill it measures resistance from the MCOR pot. So measure resistance of the pot and the switch inside of the MCOR.

          Do you have a voltage converter on your cart that will also cause sparks.
          Check and make sure you have a resistor across the big terminals on the solenoid. And while you're at it a diode across the small terminals Of the solenoid.

          1 more thing with all the pedals depressed cart not moving have someone move the tires and see if it starts going
          Updated by gaminde; June 25, 2012, 05:26 PM.

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          • #6
            Thanks, Yes, I have the resistor and diode on the Albright 48V solenoid. I will test the MCOR out today and report back.

            Batt 6 only has the main cable going to B- on the controller and Batt 5 has a yellow wire with 20A fuse, which I thought was for 12V to power lights.

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            • #7
              I jumpered the blue and green wires going to the mcor and the car ran. I still have a problem where the car will have the solenoid 'drop out' when going, but if I change the pedal position the car will re-engage the solenoid and keep running. So, looks like the inside of the mcor isn't allowing good contact and I will be replacing that soon.

              Thanks and a big shout out to all who helped me get this car running again (wife's happy)!

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              • #8
                You have a look to this to get the solution. You will get entire information in brief.
                ______________
                club car parts

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