Motor Coupling Install Question

[youracman]

Ya know, sometimes when I ain't sure what I am in for, I just buy a new part and when I look it over, I can sorta tell how to do a replacement (and sometimes I get fooled.......ever done that?) This is one of "those times".

I have quieted my drive train down a lot by putting in new lube (with about 20% STP .... as suggested by another forum member) but I thought a new coupling might be in order as well. I bought one (see pics) and find that it evidently needs to be pressed on or perhaps it is even a "shrink" fit? (No keyway, no setscrew, etc) At any rate methinks it may be beyond my hobby-shop-type garage capability. It is for the std 3HP GE motor on my 05 Precedent.

Anyone put one of these guys on? If so, what's involved?

Thanks, Ed S in TX

[andy4639]

I think you are going to need a press. I guess if you could heat it up enough that would work also.

[youracman]

Thanks, Andy-

I suspected as much. I will be up in the Denver area next month, so I called a dealer there, explained my dilemma; and asked if he would mind installing the coupling if I just bring the whole motor to him. They basically said "bring it on" ...... so I plan to go that route. It must be a pretty tight fit to hold the lock-down torque on a 3HP with only friction.

If the new coupling lessens the differential whine noticeably, I will re-post for the benefit of others on the forum.

ed s in TX







ed s in TX

[sonicj]

i've yet to install one myself... but you can weld a nut on the end of the coupler and use a bolt to pull the old coupler off. heat will likely help.

lack of a chamfer on the rear of the coupler leads me to think that it is installed by thermal expansion or with a retaining compound like loctite 638 vs a press, but i could be wrong.

im interested to know how they end up doing it... also, where did you purchase the coupler? cheers!
-sj

[youracman]

Sorry for the late response....I haven't visited the forum in a while (obviously). I will sure get back to you on the method used by the dealer up there in Denver. I leave for the area on April 1st and return about 2 weeks later, so I will post about then....maybe after I get the motor reinstalled and take a ride to see if I notice much improvement in the "whine". I also want to check with them about the splined rubber "bumper" for GE motors that I see in the online catalog below. I'm sure I will want to install that new also......just hadn't noticed it before.

I bought the coupler online at http://easttexasgolfcars.com/
It is their item number 7136. The actual catalog page is at:
http://www.discountcartpartsstore.co...rchresults.htm


I see the coupler jumped in price since I got mine.....pretty durned pricey! I have had mixed results with their online ordering but when you call the number on their website, the boss always answers......then your order arrives very soon thereafter.

Cheers, Ed S.

[youracman]

OOoops. I see that the catalog page I sent along via cut and paste won't come up ...... too far indentured I guess. Anyway, I just now went to their website>Club Car Parts and typed in 7136 in the search box and that worked. Ed S.

[pistolpete]

put the armature in the freezer overnite, heat the coupler, they will go right together.

[youracman]

I am up in Colorado now.....but w/o my motor. I attempted to remove it, but I actually had to drive tapered metal wedges in between the motor and the transaxle to get it to move. At just under 1/2", I realized I was removing the case/fields and leaving the armature/coupler behind.....and I really didn't want to go there. SOoo, in the hope that the brushes were still "atop" the commutator, I used some longer 1/4-20 bolts to draw the case back into place and then bolted everything back up. I apparently "lucked out" as the motor still runs fine. I am back at square one now and will decide which route to take later.

I have been advised by a guy who repairs/rebuilds carts that he sometimes has to remove the case/fields and then sometimes also has to drill a hole in the coupler to inject penetrating oil to facilitate removal! Seems the seizing up is pretty common ....... especially with couplers with even more splines than mine. (He puts a little anti-seizing compound on at re-assembly.) I really like to "roll my own" but I may farm the job out to him .......... especially if I go to a new higher performance motor/controller.

BTW- pistolpete is absolutely correct. I was advised (before my aborted attempt at motor removal) to put the new coupling in the oven at 400 or 450 for a few hours and it would slip right on there. I'm sure the deep freeze treatment for the armature would provide even a little more clearance. Thanks pistolpete.