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I've got a smoking engine problem with one of the carts in my stable. 1998 Club Car, engine had carb float problems and dumped alot of gas in crankcase. Pulled carb, cleaned and installed new float and needle valve and drained crankcase and changed oil filter, plus the air filter. Fires up perfect but after a minute, while smoke pours out the exhaust and gets worse. Checked compression, good 140-150 #, reset valves, .005, checked spark plug, no deposits, proper amount of oil in crankcase, no more carb float sticking. Replaced breather reed valve, drain holes in head clear. All for nothing. Engine fires instantly, runs fine but again, after a minute the smoke starts rolling out the exhausts, even swapped out the muffler. Breather tube from valve chamber to carb is clear and not passing oil. Ran engine with valve cover removed and observed reed valve, working perfectly lubing valve stems. Short of jerking engine and checking oil pressure relief valve or doing a ring job, which compression is ruling out, I'm at a loss as to how oil is getting into cylinder. Help from anyone appreciated, rather try hints before jerking the engine.
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I had a similar problem. The cart would run and after a bit of time it would pour out smoke. Turns out it was the rings, the compression was still good but the scraper ring was not, which made the engine burn oil. New rings, new seals and adjust the valves and you are good to go.Regards -
Well I finally got around to jerking the engine and replacing the rings, piston and cylinder bore all within specs. Figured while it was out to replace the oil pressure relief valve, spring, ball and seat. I have the same compression as before 140#, breather reed replaced too and installed the engine and the same bolognam smokes like a chimney. Take about 3 minutes of running clean, then the smoke starts. I have no ideas other than the cylinder is washed out. Anyone have any other ideas??Posted earlier by Matti View PostComment
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Are you overfilling it with oil? Also, is the cart lifted?
If you rode the cart for a while with it smoking the muffler can have a coating of oil in it, and after the muffler warms up it burns it off making the cart smoke just as bad as before. Continue riding it, and if it does not clear up then you know there is a problem still. Usually the carts run real rough if they are burning oil still. Dont forget to keep an eye on the oil level.
The last last last thing we want you to do is have to break down the motor again for no reason. Worse comes to worse, you might need to get the cylinder honed, but we wont worry about that yet.RegardsComment
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Posted earlier by Matti View Post
Nope, actually put only 32 ounces of oil in, shows alittle low on the stick. Cart is not lifted, we're a public golf course, I have 69 other babies to care for too. Before rebuilding the engine, I thought of the gas/oil in the muffler and swap it out with another, did the same smoke thing. Really hate to drop the engine again for a hone job, I just can't see how that much oil is getting into the combustion chamber and being burned to smoke like it does, indexed the rings as the book instructed, oiled the cylinder and installed piston, with new rings, piston was tight going up and down, getting to be a real head scratcher.Comment
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Did you replace the valve seals and adjust the valves?RegardsComment
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Checked valves, good, and valve seals seemed tight didn't replace, adjusted the valves to .006.Posted earlier by Matti View PostComment
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If you replaced the rings and adjusted the valves, you have to replace the original seals or else the new pressure can make them leak. When I rebuild an engine I always say go all or go nothing because of this. Another thing you can check is the reed valve in the head, make sure it is allowing oil to be circulated. Before doing anything and besides doing a compression test, you can also do a more accurate leak down test and see if that gives you any different results related to the worn cylinder.
Factory valve lash is .005" but it shouldn't make any difference on smoking.
We pretty much covered it all now, but if I remember anything else to look for I let you know.RegardsComment
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Yeah, should have, could have. Reed doing its thing, replaced that originally before ring job. Watched it work running engine with valve cover off, nice spurts of oil, nothing excessive. I have 2 manuals, one says .005 and general repair manual for club car says .006, but .001 will not make a difference. Thanks for all the help and up-dates, engines been quite a headache, keep you all posted.Posted earlier by Matti View PostComment
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