I have a 94 medlist the solinoid clicks but no move ment. just put new batteries in was running fine have power to motor all four lugs in reverse or forward seems odd
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Ezgo wont go
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Take the F/R handle while you have the gas pedal pressed to engage the solenoid wiggle the handle back and forth. Don't jerk it just easly wiggle.
They get hot a warp and loose conntact. Look at the cam and make sure all the nuts are tight.sigpic
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There is no substitute for Voltage!
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If you are testing the motor with a volt meter on the neg of the battery and pos on the terminals of the motor, you will show power to all four terminals. It seems to me you may have something hooked up wrong, or possibly a controller problem.
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Man if you give details like this it's a lot better. Spinning wheels with a heavy load like that! You burnt the motor out of it more than likely are the controller are both.
I'd say you fried it. Check the F/R contactors and see if they are all burnt up. I'll be surprised if they aren't.sigpic
I'm here to help!
There is no substitute for Voltage!
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To add to that, when you are checking voltage on an electric cart you need to check at the battery. Electric carts do not use the frame for any electrical connections including the ground.
If you want to take the time to diagnose and have some patience we can probably walk you through it.Updated by dougmcp; January 27, 2012, 07:12 PM.
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Sorry for my post earlier but details like that are how we figure out what happened to it.
I will help you all I can but you have to be forth giving of info when you want us to help figure out what happened. We need as much info as possible if you want a good answer to the problem.sigpic
I'm here to help!
There is no substitute for Voltage!
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srry a bit overwhelmed with this computer forum and a bit mad upset with my self for using it as a tow truck im going to check battery voltage and check as much as i can then give you all a complete list of readings and findings thank you for your help so far
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Jack the cart back wheels off the ground and put a cable on the 2 big terminals and then try it. If it works the solenoid is bad.
Just because it clicks doesn't mean much.
Another test take a volt reading on the small terminals one with key off and one with it on and see if it's passing voltage.
Make sure all the cables are good and tight. Pull on each one of them good. If they are good and tight then a good pull want hurt them. If they are loose are fixing to come apart you will find it.sigpic
I'm here to help!
There is no substitute for Voltage!
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Assuming everything is good to the controller you can test this way:
Key on, F/R in forward, throttle depressed.
Measure voltage on the controller from B+ to M- if you have no voltage the controller is bad.
Here is a schematic of the controller:
Click to enlarge
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Thnx i checked finally and no reading also noticed the flat lug comin out of controller has a seperation from the plastic around it like it got hot i know iknow i cuased this. Now is there a place to look for a controller at a decent price?
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Are you looking for a new, used or rebuilt one?
I believe you have a Curtis 1204 controller bu you will need to get the number off the end panel to confirm they are the same. It should be something like these numbers eg: 1204-1203 or 1204-201/207 or 1204X-P002.
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I found a used 1992 Marathon controller and have sent the guy a tickler for the pricing. Will pass on to you when I get the info.
Ask andy4639 if he has a controller for sale. He just posted an Alltrax 400a series controller that would give your cart some extra pulling power.
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I have a controller for this. I would take $300.00 + shipping. It's non programable. Just put it in and go.
It has the solenoid already mounted on it.
I need to look and make sure it's for the 0-5k input though. I can't remember for sure are is it for a ITS.sigpic
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Everything I have is for ITS signal. What kind of throttle does the cart have in it? It should have the pot box for throttle.
If it's a pot box I can program it for you before I send it.
A used 400amp long box.
$350.00+ shipping
Prority mail is how I ship most stuff.
sigpic
I'm here to help!
There is no substitute for Voltage!
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The controller should work fine. Either one of them. It's a ITS series cart from the pictures. They are just about to small but you have the right stuff so your good to go.
I didn't think they swaped over that soon to the ITS system.sigpic
I'm here to help!
There is no substitute for Voltage!
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The big terminals are the same as the old one.
The small spade connections are #1 power from solenoid.
2 & 3 are the white and black from ITS pedal. The 4th one is for 1/2 speed not used.sigpic
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Ok Andy got it cleaned and hooked . Battery pack, Neg toB- and charger
Pos to solinoid right large post and charger.
B+ to 12 0clock F/R and solinoid left side large post
B- to Battery pack Neg solinoid right small post
M- to motor A1
S1 motor to F/R 3 oclock
S2 motor to F/R 9 oclock
A1 motor to M- on controller
A2 motor to F/R 6 oclock
solinoid with small post toward you
left large postB+ F/R 12oclock
right large post Battery pack pos. and blue wire to F/R
they have a diode or restor going from left to right small and large post on solinoid
Small left postred wire to 1 on controller red wire to F/R
Small rightBlack wire to B- and another wire into harness
that about does it i just have to hook up the pos and neg to battery pack upon your ok !
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I'm at work tonight and will have to get home and look at the schematic to verify. It sounds right. The diode on the 2 small terminal should have a white band on it. It's the + side.sigpic
I'm here to help!
There is no substitute for Voltage!
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#1. I would say it's getting time for batteries.
#2. Do they have water in them?
It may take a couple of cycles to get them back up to fully being charged.sigpic
I'm here to help!
There is no substitute for Voltage!
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