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1991 Club Car Carburetor

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  • 1991 Club Car Carburetor

    I am new to these forums, so bare with me. I have a 1991 club car that needed a little TLC. I have been running into a problem I am not familiar with. The cart seemed like it was flooding so I tried adjusting the carburetor air/fuel screw (I am not sure what the correct term is). I know that the correct adjustment should be around 1 1/2 turns, but it seems to run well at 3/4 turns. will this hurt my engine? Thanks for any help.

  • #2
    The fuel/air screw usually controls the idle mixture setting. First you need know if the screw controls the fuel or air depending on the carb. Usually turning it in makes the idle mixture richer by lessening the about of air. On older carbs it controlled the amount of fuel making it leaner. Easy way to find out is bottom out the screw gently counting the turns, remove the screw and see if it has a fine sharp point (fuel control) or a dull round point (air control) Before doing all this make sure the air filter is good. Has the cart been sitting for some time, if so the carb will probably need to be removed and cleaned. You didn't mention what motor your have. There are many things that can cause a ragged running engine that are fairly simple to cure. Does it run better with a little choke on or worse? If it runs better with the choke on it means the carb is a bit plugged up from old gas sitting in the carb for too long, it takes only a few weeks for gas to turn to varnish and plug jets.

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    • #3
      I am not sure how long it has been sitting. The motor is a 341cc four cycle. The choke is a push button style that is in the air box system. I never have to choke the motor. It starts every time and generally runs good. It seems to happen when the motor sounds like it is maxed out (usually going down hill). Once it starts sputtering I need to come to a complete stop and start again and until I go down another hill it is fine. It smells of gas so I think it is running rich. I did "tune it up". Put a new air filter in, changed the oil, spark plug, and fuel filter. I have some knowledge of cars (little carburetor experience) so the way this carb. works is a mystery to me. I always thought the air/furl screw was used to adjust idle mixture, but I am not sure when my cart is at idle. Hit the gas and the motor runs, let off and stop and the motor stops. When would it idle? Thanks for the reply.

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      • #4
        Try running some fuel injection cleaner through it. Going rich when letting off or going down hill could be the needle and seat allowing too much fuel into the float bowl. When going down hill you let off the gas engaging the idle circuit, the throttle plate closes off the main jet. I would remove the carb and clean it good. Which involves removing the pilot, main jet, needle jet and needle and seat. It sounds to me that the something is holding open the needle and seat a bit causing the too much fuel going through the main jet when the throttle is closed going down hill. The popping is raw fuel going into the exhaust and igniting in the muffler. Carts are a funny things as when you let off the gas is closes the carb dropping the butterfly all the way closed ( the idle set screw is backed all the way out) this is a high vacuum and low fuel condition. The idle circuit is always in play as the throttle opens fuel is drawn off the main jet adding to the idle jet flow. If the fuel is too high in the float bowl it can run through the main jet flooding the engine at high vacuum plus excessive fuel being pulled through the idle jet. Another thing to look for is the float bowl vent could be plugged, but that usually causes a lean condition. By turning in the air mixture screw you made it richer. I would suggest a good cleaning, I just spent 4 hours cleaning 3 carbs from a boat that were the worst I've seen in a long time. Cleaning is not a big deal, but can be scary to someone with little or no experience. It takes very little crude in the carb to cause problems.
        Updated by Larry1950; August 28, 2012, 06:44 PM.

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        • #5
          Thanks for the info. I will pull the carb. and clean it. I have never had a carburetor apart, is there any thing that need to be aware of? I am familiar with how one in an automotive application works, but never had to take one apart.

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          • #6
            Small engine carbs are pretty simple. Consisting of a float, needle and seat. main jet, needle jet, and idle/low speed jet. When gas sits in the carb for more than a few weeks it turns to varnish, glue and then a solid plugging pretty much all the jets. You might want to take pictures are you go. Remove the carb and gently turn in the air/mixture screw til it bottoms counting the turns, then remove it. Take off the float bowl, remove the float and needle. Remove the main,needle and idle jets. I use fuel injection cleaner filling the float bowl and soaking all the parts. Clean the float bowl and drain passages. Clean out all the holes in the jets (small wire or number drills. Use some spray carb cleaner to blow out all passages in the carb. Careful on the seat as some are just a rubber plug and can be blown out never to be found again. When you are satisfied that everything is good reassemble. While your are at it remove and clean the fuel pump and replace the fuel lines as crude can still be in the pump and fuel lines. Install a new fuel filter and a inline fuel shut off valve. Next time you store the cart put some stabilizer in the tank drive it around for awhile then simply shut off the fuel and run it til it quits. You will never have carb problems again

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            • #7
              Excellent knowledge and advice Larry, thanks for your support of the forum.

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              • #8
                Glad to help, been around small engine carburetors for a long time. A little prevention saves a lot or problems. The boat carbs (3) I just did I had to drill out a brass soft plug in the idle passage, then drill out the solid varnish for over an inch in the passage. Replace the brass soft plug with #6 lead shot. Never did get the needle jet out of that carb, but a good soaking and all is well. The motor runs as it should, saved the guy over $600.00 for new carbs, they were nasty.

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                • #9
                  I have the carb apart and mostly clean now. I have the main jet and idle jet soaking over night and plan to put it back together tomorrow. It was surprisingly easy to take apart. Let you know how it goes.

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                  • #10
                    I must have done it right because I put it back together and put it on today. I drove it all over town (we live in a small town) for a couple of hours and it ran great. I am surprised how much better it runs. Moved the gas mixture screw out to 1 1/4 turns with no issues. Thanks for the advice.

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                    • #11
                      Glad it worked out for you. Its amazing how little crude it takes to make a motor run poorly.

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                      • #12
                        On a 91 yahama I replaced the carb with a new one but the new one has a tube on the bottom of the float bowl. Where does this attach? Also the cart will not start without choking it. Could this be the cause? I'm new working on golf carts and would greatly appreciate any help on this. Thanks

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                        • #13
                          The tube from the bowl is likely a overflow tube, won't connect anywhere just dangles, Having to use the choke means the low end fuel circuit is too lean. Probable needs to clean the pilot jet, might try backing out the idle mixture screw about 1/4 turn at a time.

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