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  • 79 Ez Go wiring questions

    Hi all new to this forum...

    Just got a 79 Ez Go 36v resistor cart. Cart and charger are in rough shape but the farme is solid and should make a nice fixer-upper. Anyhow many wires were broken and/or hanging off. I don't see an exact wiring diagram that matches my cart on the net. I'm pretty sure it is wired correctly now but it wont run. I do have 2 batteries that are reading in the 2-3 volt range and was wondering what voltage is needed to at least turn the motor?

    Also..
    When I plug the charger in the meter barely moves 2-3 amps at max and I'm sure these batteries are run down. Before spending big money on new batteries i wanted to know if I could at least get it running so I'm not throwing away more money. Any help would be great. Thanks

  • #2
    Take a automative charger and charge them. 2-3 volts and the cart want run.
    All Ezgo coils are wired pretty much the same over all just differant locations and minor safety features added over the years and same with controller carts.
    Here is the wiring for it.

    sigpic
    I'm here to help!
    There is no substitute for Voltage!

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    • #3
      Thanks Andy... I have one of the low ones on a charger now. A little while ago with the 36vdc charger on it for a while I was able to get it running in reverse only. It started running as soon as I moved the shifter slightly towards reverse. The throttle had no effect on it. I guess I still have something wired wrong. I'll take a look at your drawing and see if I can debug it. Mine only has two microswitches... one on the speed controller lever and another on the shifter. The key switch doesn't make a difference on or off. Thanks for all your help!

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      • #4
        Look at the contactor board. Botton copper bolt shouldn't have anything connected to it. Where the arm moves up and down to make the cart speed up. The arm shouldn't be touching the next contact when gas pedal is not pressed. It should come back to reat on bottom contact and stop moving. Check gas pedal linkage and make sure it's not bent are the micro switch isn't disengaging when it returns.
        sigpic
        I'm here to help!
        There is no substitute for Voltage!

        Comment


        • #5
          Yeah i found the the microswitch wasn't closing when the pedal was at rest so I bent the lever a bit and now it works properly. My contacts on the board run horizontally and it looks like it lined up good. I'll check again tomorrow after these low batteries come back up. Does the solenoid come on when the shifter is in F or R or only when the pedal is depressed? Mine is fairly quiet in F but chatters pretty bad in R... Something is wierd with how it's acting. I was happy to see the motor turning today though... definately a bonus! Thanks!!

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          • #6
            My motor... Can you tell me which posts are which. Every picture I've seen has them together on the ass end. I can't see any identification because it's been painted.
            Attached Files
            Updated by cortezfisherman; May 6, 2012, 10:09 PM.

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            • #7
              Posted earlier by cortezfisherman View Post
              My motor... Can you tell me which posts are which. Every picture I've seen has them together on the ass end. I can't see any identification because it's been painted.
              Sorry can't help you on the motor. Take a small wire brush and clean around the terminals and they should be stamped into the case.

              I think the solenoid operates only in F/R yes by the micto switches on the F/R handle.
              sigpic
              I'm here to help!
              There is no substitute for Voltage!

              Comment


              • #8
                Alright another day of looking at this thing... I found a diagram that matches my cart component by component. Mine is missing the buzzer and extra MS for it but all in all pretty close. I found several wires in the wrong location, even some that looked like they had been there since new. Anyhow I changed everything to match this drawing and now the key switch works, the solenoid is working fine, I'm getting 35V+ on the resistors and still no motor. I took apart the F/R switch and cleaned it real good, straightened out the contacts, and verified they looked good. I have 36V on the bottom contact but no matter how I shift it I get nothing on any of the others. Should I take it back apart and strech the springs? I tried to unhook the motor to test it manually but one of the terminals (A1) is pretty rusted. It's soaking in liquid wrench overnight. I've got A1, A2 and S1, S2 on the motor. Which is which, do you know?

                Also now that I have all batteries up around 6V and 35.5 volts across the group my charger still does not kick in. Checked the fuse, good...checked most of the connections and continuity on all. I did not check the diodes yet. It does buzz a little but nothing that I'm used to with these carts. Meter moves maybe an amp. Question... does the timer switch carry much current? I didn't dive into it too much and I can't find an exact schematic. It is an EZ-GO 6701... Thanks again in advance for all the help!
                Attached Files
                Updated by cortezfisherman; May 7, 2012, 06:29 PM.

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                • #9
                  First wiring diagram shows you the motor hook up. Second. Did you put the F/R cam back together as it was. If you moved the bar are turned it a 1/2 turn out of sequance it want run no matter what you do. You have to put it back together as it came a part.

                  The charger sounds like the capicator maybe shot. If it's humming but not putting out.
                  sigpic
                  I'm here to help!
                  There is no substitute for Voltage!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks Andy... I 've bought a new F/R cam with new posts and plate... It is very similar but doesn't have the exact same indents for the MS... So I took the pieces and moved them to my old cam and now it looks good but for some strange reason the cam seems to be about 10 degrees out of rotational position from before. Meaning that the MS doesn't engage the cam properly now. When it is on the hardstop it is short a little and the switch doesn't trip. In the other direction it overtravels the indent. Had to step away for a break tonight and will look at it again tomorrow. I will check the Cap tomorrow in the charger as well. THANKS!

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                    • #11
                      What I meant by the motor question was which terminal does what? Field, direction, etc...

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                      • #12
                        OK I got you now.

                        Look here.
                        http://www.alltraxinc.com/files/Doc1...O-Wire-Dia.pdf

                        Now looking at the drawing and the F/R switch think of yours and put a 4 connector on top of these 4 cables shown.
                        Just to make it simple
                        for instance

                        A-2 and S-1 are connected and the cart goes forward then you move the handle to reverse and connect A-1 to S-2 the cart goes in reverse.
                        You are only moving the curuit path around.
                        sigpic
                        I'm here to help!
                        There is no substitute for Voltage!

                        Comment

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