Probably speed controller (sigh)?

[joesam]

I'm hoping someone will tell me my problem is NOT the speed controller. Here's cart & the the symptoms:

1996 Club Car DS-Regen with original (with red, not orange dash light) OBC - and made about a year before they added a run/tow switch to this model.

On the golf course today (hole #9) when I went to drive forward, the cart lurched/bumped forward (about 8") and stopped. Normally, the cart accelerates very gradually - it never "lurches") I turned the key on and off, but nothing....dead.

Got a push home from a neighbors cart (1/2 block). Here's what I've noticed so far:

1) The reverse buzzer still works.
2) There is no "click" when I turn the key on/off (it always used to click - and stay "on" for about 30-45 seconds) - then I'd hear the solenoid click off (if I hadn't moved the cart). Touching the accelerator would both repeat the sound of the key click and the cart would drive forward - as long as the cart key was on.
3) Battery pack at rest is 51.5 volts and when I plug in the charger/OBC the cart batteries charge as normal.
4) I thought it was the main solenoid, but when I turn on the key switch, there is NO VOLTAGE on the two small posts on the main solenoid.
5) I'm hoping that the early Regen's have something else between the key and the main solenoid that might have failed....anyone? I have a manual for newer 1998 Regen's and it suggests that with the Run/Tow switch on (which I don't have, so I assumed my key switch on) - if there is no voltage at the small posts of the main solenoid, the problem is the speed controller (rats)!
6) The model/serial# of my speed controller is EV4L48XB2 - General Electric.

I have one other diagnostic that I need to do tonite (eg. bypass OBC) but I wanted to make sure the cart took a full/normal charge - and it did. I suspect if the charging system works perfectly, it may not be the OBC. Thanks to this forum, I downloaded a manual specific to my cart - very helpful in finding the correct tests to conduct!

Anyone have any other ideas before I purchase/install a replacement controller?

Joe

[gaminde]

Well you do need to do the OBC bypass you have inputs from the obc to the controller or solenoid that control the solenoid operation. This is called the charger lockout if the charger is plugged in it will not run. before replacing the controller make sure all the controller inputs/outputs are working, something as simple as a broken wire from the key switch to controller or solenoid will do this.

[joesam]

OK - thanks. Yeah - there is more troubleshooting left to do. Checking continuity on every wire between key switch and controller (and running the documented key switch diagnostic) is going to be a bit of a pain - but could save hundreds if its that simple. Is there a best replacement controller (in terms of reliability & ease of install)?

I have found a place that has the identical OEM (refurb I think) controller for $200. But if you suspect the original design is failure prone and that I'd be better off with a more modern "compatible" controller, let me know your opinion(s).

[gaminde]

I like the IQ controllers you will need to rewire the controller plug but for 100 to 150 for a controller you can do 20mph stock.

[joesam]

How complex are the instructions for rewiring (assuming there are instructions)? Don't forget this is a Regen 1 cart (with the old Black GE "T" shaped speed controller); and no Run/Tow switch. Is it really as simple as rewiring a plug to use an IQ controller? Will I lose the motor braking of Regen (which I actually use)?

Joe

[gaminde]

How complex are the instructions for rewiring (assuming there are instructions)? Don't forget this is a Regen 1 cart (with the old Black GE "T" shaped speed controller); and no Run/Tow switch. Is it really as simple as rewiring a plug to use an IQ controller? Will I lose the motor braking of Regen (which I actually use)?

Joe

IQ is regen the plug is the main part there are some other things also

[joesam]

Hmmm - almost sounds too good to be true - a couple hundred dollars and a couple hours work gains 8 mph on an old buggy like mine? I'm off to do the final tests to determine for sure that it really is a failed controller, then if it is, I'll ask a few more "leading" questions about upgrading to a IQ controller - OK?

[joesam]

Here's the highlights of tonight's tests:

Test Procedure 6 - Capacitor Charge Voltage
With the key switch either on or off, capacitors inside the controller should receive constant voltage input. With the key switch OFF, the reading should be Capacitor Charge Voltage (approximately .8 volt below Full Battery Voltage)
With Key On or Off - voltage is exactly the same (50.7V) it is not .8V lower when Off (as the test defines).

Test Procedure 7 - Voltage to Main Solenoid Coil
Failed. On or Off - voltage = zero

Test Procedure 8 - Key Switch Continuity
Passed.

Test Procedure 9 - Key Switch Wire Continuity
Passed.

Test Procedure 10 - Voltage from Z4 (Blue/White Wire) to Main Solenoid Coil
Failed - zero voltage whether On or Off.

Test Procedure 11 - Z4 (Blue/White Wire) Continuity
Passed

Test Procedure 13 - On-board Computer By-pass
Failed - Bypass did not restore main solenoid activation or voltage when Key switched On.

So....does anyone think its NOT the speed controller?

[gaminde]

Post the schematic that you're using, I will take a look and come up with a couple of tests

[joesam]

Sure - its this one - and it is accurate - exactly what's in my cart.

[gaminde]

Here's the highlights of tonight's tests:

Test Procedure 6 - Capacitor Charge Voltage
With the key switch either on or off, capacitors inside the controller should receive constant voltage input. With the key switch OFF, the reading should be Capacitor Charge Voltage (approximately .8 volt below Full Battery Voltage)
With Key On or Off - voltage is exactly the same (50.7V) it is not .8V lower when Off (as the test defines).

This test is for the resistor across the solenoid if used or just the current draw of the capicators charging which has a voltage drop

Test Procedure 7 - Voltage to Main Solenoid Coil
Failed. On or Off - voltage = zero

Really can't be zero power goes to main solenoid from batteries and also to one side of power switch, so check both small terminals again with the meter this time the neg lead goes to the battery pack negative

Test Procedure 8 - Key Switch Continuity
Passed.

Test Procedure 9 - Key Switch Wire Continuity
Passed.

Test Procedure 10 - Voltage from Z4 (Blue/White Wire) to Main Solenoid Coil
Failed - zero voltage whether On or Off.

Test Procedure 11 - Z4 (Blue/White Wire) Continuity
Passed

The above three tests are somewhat redundant with key off ground the blue and white wire on the solenoid to -48 volts on the batteries be careful turn key on listen for click.

Test Procedure 13 - On-board Computer By-pass
Failed - Bypass did not restore main solenoid activation or voltage when Key switched On.

So....does anyone think its NOT the speed controller?

I have some other tests just remember to ground meter to -48 on the battery pack.

[joesam]

Here's the full description of Test #7:
Test Procedure 7 - Voltage to Main Solenoid Coil
1. Turn the key switch to OFF and place the forward and reverse switch in NEUTRAL. Leave the batteries connected and leave the Z plug connected to the controller.
2. Place the black (-) probe of a multimeter, set to Volts DC, to one of the small posts on the main solenoid and place the red (+) probe on the other small post on the main solenoid (Figure 21-26). With the key switch OFF, voltage reading should be zero. Turn the key switch to ON, the reading should be full battery voltage. If the reading is full battery voltage and the solenoid does not click, replace the solenoid.

Now can it be zero?

As for your other edits...the cart has been completely and entirely "clickless" (eg. solenoid throw) since it failed. Not one click has ever re-appeared despite all testing activity to date.

[joesam]

Gaminde - I sent you a PM

[gaminde]

I did not get it try email off my site

[gaminde]

Here's the full description of Test #7:
Test Procedure 7 - Voltage to Main Solenoid Coil
1. Turn the key switch to OFF and place the forward and reverse switch in NEUTRAL. Leave the batteries connected and leave the Z plug connected to the controller.
2. Place the black (-) probe of a multimeter, set to Volts DC, to one of the small posts on the main solenoid and place the red (+) probe on the other small post on the main solenoid (Figure 21-26). With the key switch OFF, voltage reading should be zero. Turn the key switch to ON, the reading should be full battery voltage. If the reading is full battery voltage and the solenoid does not click, replace the solenoid.

Now can it be zero?

As for your other edits...the cart has been completely and entirely "clickless" (eg. solenoid throw) since it failed. Not one click has ever re-appeared despite all testing activity to date.

Ok my thinking was on my testing yes it can be zero volts because they have you testing on the solenoid terminals and they switch both positive and negative sides. So try my tests and confirm that there is power.

[joesam]

OK - will try the last suggestion (Blu/Wht to neg post) when I get home. Was there anything else that I s/b testing that I haven't covered?

BTW - I just realized I put a checkmark in "email" not in PM - see if that helps find it.

[gaminde]

look this post over and contact this person to see what happened


http://www.golfcartsforum.com/club-c...plus-gen2.html

[joesam]

Yep - your test confirmed that the solenoid is just fine. It clicks just like it used to (and clicks off when I turn the key off) - voltage across the two small posts is 50.7V and the two large posts close connection. BUT when I put the cart in fwd, and depress the pedal - I hear a familiar (almost inaudible but familiar) tiny whine. BUT the cart doesn't move an inch.

[joesam]

Sent him a PM (email not available). He just seemed to vaporize last June????

[gaminde]

did you try reverse

[gaminde]

Ok good the next thing I would check is the speed controller or variable pot and switch that actuates when the pedal is pressed

[joesam]

I'm not sure I know how to do that. I know that the solenoid clicks when the key is On, and I know that it clicks off when the switch is off. what I think I've determined is that battery negative is not present between the controller and the solenoid, and that the Blu/Wht wire is NOT broken between the "Z" connector and the solenoid (from yesterday's tests). I think the MCOR is working (because of the quiet whine when I depress the pedal). I've already determined the reverse buzzer/circuit is working. I think this leaves nothing except a failed controller...no?

[gaminde]

Well before I bought a new controller I would check 2 things
With the jumper on the blue and white wire I would
1 check voltage between a 1 and a 2 on the motor and F 1 and F 2 both voltage measurements would be done with peddle actuated
2 if it a1 and a2 have no voltage then second solenoid should be jumped on large post
3 I would with wires off of motor check resistance between a 1 and a 2 and then F 1 and F 2
4 if no voltage between F 1 and F 2 controller probably bad

[joesam]

OK - Isn't the second solenoid only used for reverse? Will I get wheel spin when I jump the second solenoid with foot pedal depressed?

I understand your having me test the motor (to make sure its not blown) but wouldn't there be other indicators of a fried motor?

Joe

[gaminde]

OK - Isn't the second solenoid only used for reverse? Will I get wheel spin when I jump the second solenoid with foot pedal depressed?

Second solenoid is Regen if this solenoid does not pull in cart will not run, no voltage to A1 and A2 !!!
Wheel spin when jumping ?? I hope so!!!


I understand your having me test the motor (to make sure its not blown) but wouldn't there be other indicators of a fried motor?

?? Like what !! same as a controller !!

Joe

Let me know what you find

[joesam]

Gaminde

"Social commitments" kept me from crawling under the cart last night - so I'll have to carry on and complete your tests tonight.

On another note, by "other" indications of a blown motor I was thinking things like:
a) grinding noise preceding failure of bearings etc
b) heat
c) smoke
d) siezure
e) sparks
f) fried cables
g) telegram from the manufacturer

OK....so "G" is pretty unlikely, but it seemed to me the others (which did not happen) might be more indicative of a motor failure. But hey, what do I know?

[gaminde]

Gaminde

"Social commitments" kept me from crawling under the cart last night - so I'll have to carry on and complete your tests tonight.

On another note, by "other" indications of a blown motor I was thinking things like:
a) grinding noise preceding failure of bearings etc
b) heat
c) smoke
d) siezure
e) sparks
f) fried cables
g) telegram from the manufacturer

OK....so "G" is pretty unlikely, but it seemed to me the others (which did not happen) might be more indicative of a motor failure. But hey, what do I know?

OK but you would expect the same from controller, I'm trying to check all things possible before spending money some people just say its bad and start replacing parts I like to PROVE its bad ( or at least everything else is good) and then start replacing parts, plus I learn from you doing all the work I don't even have to wash my hands after helping ( although my keyboard in the shop is nasty )!!

lets say there was a weak winding and it did get somewhat hot and the winding opened or a brush broke in half and is hung up in the holder not likely but possible.

I'm really more interested in the Regen solenoid if this does not pull in, the cart will not run or not run well, now there are two parts of the controller the high power control of the motor and the control section small wires. I think your most likely right ( bad controller ) but the tests you did were not conclusive enough for me to say buy.

I think your knowledgeable enough to do the IQ switch, I have an IQ controller running on my bench for testing and it does not take much to get it running. You could be the hero to many people

Oh whats a telegram!!! do they still do that ???

[joesam]

I'm really tempted to buy an IQ controller and take on the project - but we only have 3 weeks of golf left and I'm finally starting to bring my handicap into line where its supposed to be! Assuming it is the cause; I'm probably going to cheap-out and buy a refurb Regen-1 controller for the short term (under $200) - but maybe in early (pre-golf) spring I will get inspired lay out $150 on ebay (while SQUEEZING YOUR BRAIN) to solve the inevitable puzzles. I think I've see a kit for making the change to a new style IQ version of controller. It was priced at $800 or some silly amount - I'll find the link and post it tonight. See if I'm interpreting it correctly.

Definition: telegram: email printed on yellow paper with the word STOP after each line.

[gaminde]

I'm really tempted to buy an IQ controller and take on the project - but we only have 3 weeks of golf left and I'm finally starting to bring my handicap into line where its supposed to be! Assuming it is the cause; I'm probably going to cheap-out and buy a refurb Regen-1 controller for the short term (under $200) - but maybe in early (pre-golf) spring I will get inspired lay out $150 on ebay (while SQUEEZING YOUR BRAIN) to solve the inevitable puzzles. I think I've see a kit for making the change to a new style IQ version of controller. It was priced at $800 or some silly amount - I'll find the link and post it tonight. See if I'm interpreting it correctly.

Definition: telegram: email printed on yellow paper with the word STOP after each line.

Start walking you Lazy A$$ then you have 3 weeks and all winter to finish.

[joesam]

Hmmm....walking....people still do that? Hey at my age, just taking too long bending down and putting the tee in the ground can make me see spots in my peripheral vision.

Don't get me wrong - most of my golf buddies have "speed level 4" Precedents and it would be fun to have my old but fancy retro-ride racing them home from men's night. But I do have a wife who also golfs almost as much as I do and she would wonder why the heck I keep "fiddling" with the cart instead of just fixing it - its perfectly fine the way it is! (I can sense even you are nodding slowly and knowingly at that marital revelation).

I'm not afraid of a goofy challenge though; last spring (before season) I installed new halogen headlights and LED tail lights, wired in loop/series "sharing" 48 volts among the 4 of them (thus getting 12 volts apiece)- so I'm not without a sense of humor.

So in the end - it will have to be an after-season project. But I'm still tempted. I will definitely use the wiring diagram I have and download an IQ diagram to track the differences and look for logical transition between the two. As long as your still around to get tagged with dumb/obvious questions and as long as I have a bail-out plan (eg. ability to restore original equipment if it turns out to be too ugly) its still on the burner.

Gotta get home and finish what I've started - then I'll advise.

[joesam]

With the jumper on the blue and white wire and Pedal "floored":
1 check voltage between a 1 and a 2 on the motor and F 1 and F 2 both voltage measurements would be done with peddle actuated
- Between A1 A2 - Zero
- Between F1 F2 - 3.75V

2 if a1 and a2 have no voltage then second solenoid should be jumped on large post
With Large Posts jumpered on solenoid #2
Between A1 A2 - Zero
Between F1 F2 - 3.75V

3 I would with wires off of motor check resistance between a 1 and a 2 and then F 1 and F 2

Got Lazy - didn't do this because A1 A2 are clearly dead in the water

4 if no voltage between F 1 and F 2 controller probably bad

- Between F1 F2 - 3.75V
- Between A1 A2 - Zero

Went online - ordered the cheapie refurb Regen 1 controller - will arrive quickly and will keep you posted (using Fedex). I am 99.999% sure, that it is the problem component.

Joe

[gaminde]

With the jumper on the blue and white wire and Pedal "floored":
1 check voltage between a 1 and a 2 on the motor and F 1 and F 2 both voltage measurements would be done with peddle actuated
- Between A1 A2 - Zero
- Between F1 F2 - 3.75V

2 if a1 and a2 have no voltage then second solenoid should be jumped on large post
With Large Posts jumpered on solenoid #2
Between A1 A2 - Zero
Between F1 F2 - 3.75V

3 I would with wires off of motor check resistance between a 1 and a 2 and then F 1 and F 2

Got Lazy - didn't do this because A1 A2 are clearly dead in the water

4 if no voltage between F 1 and F 2 controller probably bad

- Between F1 F2 - 3.75V
- Between A1 A2 - Zero

Went online - ordered the cheapie refurb Regen 1 controller - will arrive quickly and will keep you posted (using Fedex). I am 99.999% sure, that it is the problem component.

Well at this point so am I 98% sure.

Joe

could you do me one favor before you start ripping it apart! give me the F1 and F2 volt reading using AC scale on your meter. Using DC scale may not read correctly because your pulsing DC it will look more like AC and It might read better.

[joesam]

Aaaargh! Too late! I marked all the cables and dropped the controller before I did the last post! The $200 deal is core exchange - and I boxed and sent the core first thing this morning. Sorry - wish I'd known (I already had dust in my hair and eyes - would've been simple and easy to do).

[joesam]

Good ol' Fedex. The rebuilt speed controller arrived about 9AM at my door. Within the hour, I had installed it - done a few voltage checks with power connected (per instruction sheet that came with the unit) - then turned the switch. Tadaa! My cart is fixed and running smooth. Cause of the failure? Well I've got a guess.

I have always used a corrosion cleaner/inhibitor on my battery posts, and flushed the top of batteries every month or so with plain water. And the connections were always tight. BUT when I removed the cable from the positive post, I noticed something. These cables are over 15 years old, and the ring connector had been slowly but surely dissolving over the years. It felt very "bendable" when I pulled it up, and sure enough, about half of the narrow joint between the ring and cable was essentially missing - maybe reducing the effective connection from 6 ga. to maybe 12 ga. There was also very minor evidence of arcing across the corroded gap. It wasn't easily visible because it was right next to the nut. My guess is....speed controllers don't like that! I replaced the cable which was corroded (between Batt. positive and the primary solenoid). Obviously I inspected all the other connectors while doing this job and they are OK.

Any indication of pending failure? Well....yes, maybe. In the past month or so, the cart was doing something funny. Regen carts decelerate gently from speed when you lift off the accelerator. There is also a secondary (more agressive) decelerator. When the cart is stopped on a steep hill - and you release the brake, there is considerable braking and the cart very slowly creeps forward. Well the odd thing lately is that *very occasionally* when decelerating from speed, the cart would slow down normally like all Regens do, but then when it got going just a couple miles per hour - the hill brake would cut in and brake the last few feet quite agressively and unexpectedly. It might have been trying to tell me something.

Any difference in performace between the rebuilt controller and the old one? Only one that I've noticed. The timeout between switch on and the main solenoid reset is only about 5 seconds vs the old one which was in excess of 30 seconds. I suspect this is just an internal setting.

Thanks gaminde for all your help troubleshooting. By the time I was done with your recommended tests, I was darn certain what component to replace.

Member closing tournament starts in about an hour and a half - and I'm ready to go!

[tbran]

Hi Gaminde. I have read this discussion with great interest. My mom has a 1996 DS Power Drive Plus Regen 1 with a similar problem as Joesam. She bought it about 5 years ago and the owner explained to us that the cart needed an OBC and that he had jumpered the blue/white wire to the negative post of the battery to allow the cart to run--sort of. Over the years, all indications from this forum pointed to the OBC, so I relented and replaced the OBC ($210) last week and removed the jumper to the blue/white wire on Solenoid #1. Nothing happened--just the little ""squeaky" noise that Joesam discribed above when I pressed the pedal. Replaced the jumper wire and the solenoid closed when the key was turned on. Reverse has been very sluggish and the reverse buzzer works. The cart will barely move itself in reverse without a little push with the left foot on the ground to get it started. Once it gets up to speed, it runs fine. Forward starts out slow with no foot assist then picks up speed after it gets going. I am going to check the Regen solenoid today to make sure it is pulling in. The main solenoid will not close without the OBC bypass. I have found a place that will rebuild my controller. Do you think it is the controller? It appears that my symptoms are very similar to Joesam's. The potentiometer appears to be working since the cart responds to the pedal postion and will slow to a stop if not depressed. Also, the Regen appears to be working since I can feel and hear (whine) it engage when I release the foot pedal. We don't have any hills here, so I can't say whether the overspeed control is working or not. Battery charger works fine and will charge the batteries fully. Fully charged, batteries are 51.4VDC. Individual batteries range from 8.37 VDC to 8.42 VDC. Any ideas?

[gaminde]

I will find a 96 diagram and look it over.

[tbran]

Update on the solenoids on the 96 DS PD+. With the bypass wire in place on the main solenoid, both solenoids engage when the key is turned on. Both have continuity and about 3.7 ohms resistance on the field (18 ga.) connections. I didn't measure the voltages on any connections. I drove the car and it seems to be doing all right except for the original problem. Even reverse was working pretty fair today. Unless we can define exactly what is wrong with it, I guess we will drive it another 5 years the way it is. Mom says it is all right with her and doesn't want to spend any more on it. My thing is that if it is supposed to work a certain way, then I want it to work that way. I don't like to jumper things to get them to work.

[gaminde]

Ok I looked up the regen 1 and unlike the series carts of that year in which the OBC goes directly to the solenoid (yellow wire) and controls the ground, On the regen 1 it goes to the controller and the controller controls the ground to the solenoid per the input from the OBC.

[gaminde]

You can put your old OBC on ebay and sell it cheep to someone and recoup some of your money.

[tbran]

I guess that's why so many said it was the OBC that was the problem. So it looks like the controller is the problem in this case. Yes, I had looked at the schematics and saw that both the main and regen solenoids' grounds go thru the controller. That is why I was pretty positive that the controller was the problem--after the OBC didn't fix the problem, of course. It appears that only the main solenoid ground is defective in the controller, because the regen solenoid appears to be working fine when you turn on the key--no jumper needed to the -48V battery pole. Thanks so much for your help.

[gaminde]

when there are two things to choose from a 50% / 50% chance why do I 75% of the time pick the wrong one ???

[tbran]

when there are two things to choose from a 50% / 50% chance why do I 75% of the time pick the wrong one ???

Well, the plot thickens, Gaminde. The cart has run all right up until today when I needed to recharge the batteries. Unfortunately, the charger won't come on now. I recharged the batteries prior to the replacement of the obc and this is the first time I have tried to charge them since the new obc. The charger was working fine before the new obc. Maybe it was smart that I didn't try to sell the old one on E-Bay. I think I will just replace the new one with the old one and see if the charger comes on. Any other ideas? Thanks for the help.

[gaminde]

Well if you have not charged the batteries since November then there most likely below 36-37 volts and the charger will not come on.

Quick checks
1 check pack voltage if around 36 to 40 volts use a auto charger on each battery for 2 hours.

2 there are three wires on the back of the charge receptacle Red, Black and Grey run a jumper wire from the negative 48 of the battery pack to where the grey wire attaches to the receptacle charger should click (may or may not charge but will click)

keep us posted.

[tbran]

OK. I will do that. I assume that a 12V auto charger will work?? Thanks for the tip.

[gaminde]

OK. I will do that. I assume that a 12V auto charger will work?? Thanks for the tip.

it should work fine do you have 6 8volt or 8 6volt if 6 volt you can do 2 at a time if 8 Volt go 30 to 45 minutes and check them with a voltmeter once you get the voltage to the low forties the charger should kick on. Using an auto battery charger on individual lower voltage batteries is a good way to balance your battery system it could be done at the beginning of the season.

[gaminde]

And do check your water level first

[tbran]

Here is an update on the battery charger situation:
Pack voltage: 48.1 VDC
#1 8.1 V #4 7.9 v
#2 7.8 v #5 7.9 v
#3 7.9 v #6 7.9 v

I tried to do the car battery charger and the meter showed 30+ amps. At that amperage, the charger only ran about 10 minutes before it shut down for another 10 minutes. When it cooled, I turned it back on only to have it register 30 amps again and it shut down at 10 minutes again.. By looking at the voltages I measured, it appears that the batteries are not discharged to the point that the charger wouldn't turn on. So, I think I have another problem with the new obc I installed. I am tempted to reinstall the old obc and see if the charger will fire. Does that sound ok? It will probably take me a week or so to get that done. BTW, I was trying to charge battery #1 with the car charger--which might explain why it is showing 8.1 V. Thanks for your help.

[gaminde]

do test #2 first

[tbran]

I did the jumper test from the negative battery post through the fuse on the grey wire at the charging receptacle and the relays clicked inside the charger--did not charge, but it did click. The new battery warning light came on momentarily when I turned on the key, then went off. (this light had to be replaced when I changed out the obc. The instructions stated this new light was supposed to enable the new obc to transmit data to the CDM through the battery warning light). Whatever all that means??? What do you suggest next? Thanks.

[gaminde]

well if the obc is hooked up correctly then its not looking good. Try the old one

The light is two lights in one. one you can see and an IR led that sends data much like a tv remote so that the reader can read the data in the obc.