Club Car goes and stops then beeps 3 times

[gregphilley]

I've got an issue that happens intermittently.....like maybe once a day on one cart.......I jump in it, hit the pedal....it goes about 50ft, cuts out and the reverse buzzer buzzes 3 times. Then I can re-hit the pedal and it works fine all day........Is there an Error code / Beep Code list somewhere???? Can someone tell me what this means???? Kinda bugs me......

Thanks!!!!

[Keith]

Greg;

Will you please post what year, model, and system voltage this cart is. Is it an IQ system cart? If it is, the buzzer is activated when the motor speed controller is engaging the motor braking feature because the "zero speed detect" was activated.

Until you post additonal information we can only guess what electrical circuit failure may be causing the problem your having.

[gregphilley]

Sorry.....I believe it's an 07 IQ....48v.......4 12v

AQ0715-747353

[Keith]

greg;

Okay great. Now lets go back to the original problem your having with this cart.
...... The cart operates fine for the first 50 ft. or so and then the power cuts out until you completely let off the accelerator and then reaccelerate again.

Are other people using this cart? If so, are they experiencing this problem as well? If the problem is only happening once a day it's going to be difficult to pinpoint the componant that is causing it.

The first thing I would suggest to do is to check for loose wire connections on the following componants:

Solenoid
Keyswitch
Run/Tow switch
OBC

As a foot note: In the back of my head my brain is telling me......."don't rule out a failing MCOR limitswich".
Let us know what you found and if the problem is still occuring and we can go from there.

Thanks...........Keith

[gregphilley]

Okay......this cart was dead for a few days......Load tested each battery and they are okay......what I finally did was REMOVE the fuseable link located on the back side of the charger port to get it running again.....Yes, I still need to replace the fuse but I bypassed it temporarily.....but even before that, I did switch out the MCOR, tested the key switch, and checked for loose wires.....terminals, and all......like I said, it only happens once a day (that I know of) because it does get used here at the golf course I'm at.....and mainly by the maintenance staff.....It just bugs me but it's something I can live with if necessary......

I also tested the solenoid too......it's working fine.....but isn't there a way to discharge the OBC to reset it to try and let it make new failure codes from that point on???

[Keith]

Greg;

It's not the OBC that stores the IQ system "faults" the speed controller does that. The way I understand it is that the only way you can retrieve that fault data is by using a IQDM (IQ display module) to access the carts diagnostic history and fault codes. If you do not have, or have access to a IQDM handset I would suggest that you check with your boss to see if you have money in the budget to purchase one. It will save you a ton of time, money, and headaches in trying to trouble shoot operating problems with your fleet of carts.
I plan on posting a new thread to ask the guys how much a IQDM costs and who the supplier is.

As a refresher, I added the below listed data for you to review.

ONBOARD COMPUTER CIRCUIT
The onboard computer (OBC) circuit performs the following functions:
1. Powers down the electrical system during long term storage to reduce battery discharge.
2. Turns the charger on and off during the charge cycle.
3. Locks out the motor speed controller to prevent the vehicle from moving during the charge cycle.
4. Illuminates dash-mounted battery warning light if there is a problem with the batteries or battery charger.
5. Sends a signal from the dash light to the optional Communication Display Module.


TEST PROCEDURE 17 – REBOOTING THE ONBOARD COMPUTER
See General Warnings, Section 1, Page 1-1.
It is possible the Onboard Computer (OBC) can become “locked up”, causing the OBC solenoid lockout circuit
to malfunction. If this condition is suspected, restart the computer as follows:
1. Disconnect the battery cables as instructed. See WARNING "To avoid unintentionally starting..." in
General Warnings, Section 1, Page 1-1. See following NOTE.
NOTE: Wait at least 90 seconds for the capacitors in the speed controller to discharge. The capacitors in
the speed controller must be fully discharged in order to reboot the OBC.
2. Place the Tow/Run switch in the TOW position and connect the battery cables, positive (+) cable first.
Tighten battery terminals to 110 in-lb (12.4 N·m) and coat terminals with Battery Terminal Protector
Spray (CCI P/N 1014305) to minimize corrosion.
3. Place Tow/Run switch in the RUN position.
4. Test drive the vehicle. If the vehicle functions normally the problem is corrected. If the problem still exists,
refer to Wiring Diagram on page 11-11.

I hope this will be helpful;

Keith

[gregphilley]

Okay.....thank you for that info.....I'm mechanically inclined with some AC/DC theory and digital electronics background and I sure as hell can read a book and twist a wrench.....I do automotive work with my uncle all the time for side jobs......I just got this job about 2 months ago and I'm learning everyday and I'm also a computer tech so I know I have more resources than the average bear does......that's why I'm here.....Trying to read this friggin' service manual and get tips from you guys at the same time and I appreciate all the help I've been getting from her and you!.

I'm still learning by reading and from older posts that I guess the OBC really has nothing to do with anything except charging and lockout.......am I correct???

Also, this is the procedure I had for discharging the OBC......Is this wrong???

Overview
Club Car uses an On Board Computer (OBC) to monitor and control various functions of their carts. It functions as a Go/No Go control for the charging and drive systems. If the OBC detects a problem in either the charging or drive system, it will shut that feature off. When the fault clears, the OBC is supposed to re-enable that system.
Sometimes, the OBC will not clear a fault. When this happens, it can cause the controller to not power up or the solenoid will not engage. The act of removing the controller from the cart will cause a soft reset of the OBC when the battery power is removed. With the battery power removed, the internal capacitors discharge and clear any faults. When the new controller is installed, everything works fine and the controller is considered bad, even though the problem was in the OBC. It is possible to manually reset the OBC to verify that it is not the problem. In any situation where the controller did not obviously fail, but it just stopped the OBC needs to be reset first. The reset process is easy to do, but can take a fair amount of time.

Resetting the OBC
To reset the OBC the following must be done in this order:
• Key Switch to Off
• Forward/Reverse to Neutral
• Tow/Run Switch to Tow
• Disconnect the Battery NEGATIVE (–) wire from the Battery Minus terminal on the battery pack.
• Put the Tow/Run to Run
• Forward/Reverse Switch to Reverse
• Key Switch to On
• Lock the throttle pedal down
The reverse buzzer will sound and go off in about 30 seconds. Leave the cart like that for 5 min to allow the OBC to reset.
To reconnect the OBC back into the system:
• Key Switch to Off
• Forward/Reverse Switch to Neutral
• Tow/Run switch to Tow
• Reconnect the Battery – wire to the battery minus terminal on the battery pack.
• Tow/Run switch to Run

Once the OBC has been reset, you can then troubleshoot the cart. There is always a chance the OBC has completely failed and the reset process will not fix the problem. Consult your Club Car manuals for more detailed info on testing the OBC.

Which one is correct ?!?!?! I've tried my method above with no beeps from the reverse buzzer ever and it doesn't seem to work.......is this for a different style Club Car and year???

I also have a COMMUNICATION DISPLAY MODULE (which I just learned how to use recently) and a CALIBRATION & TEST MODULE (which I haven't figured out yet)......Are these what you're talking about?!?!

[Keith]

Greg;

I hope my last reply didn't piss you off. I can assure you that I did not intend to question your technical, electrical, or mechanical abilities. With that said, I'll try to answer the questions you have listed in your last response.

Yes, you are correct. The OBCs main function is to monitor and control the charger and charging system. However, as a safety feature it will lock out the motor controller so that the cart will not operate during the charging cycle.

As far as what ever method you use to reboot the OBC it will not reboot until the power is drained from the contoller capacitors.

Now, lets go back to the original problem your having with this cart running along and then all of sudden it stops running until you cycle the accelorator peddle. I don't think we can rule out that the OBC could be malfuncioning and telling the motor controller it should be shutting down because its in the charging mode.

The IQDM series 1 handset it a trouble shooting diagnostic tool that has a pigtail cord that plugs in the pin plug that is located under the forward & reverse switch. If you have one there should be a Club Car lable in the lower right hand corner and a Qsystem lable in the upper left corner. There is also an operating manual that will instruct you on how to use it. You can find a copy of an operating manual at this link:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/101630455/IQDM-Series-1

I hope this will help you,
Keith

[gregphilley]

No No No......you didn't piss me off at all.......I was just letting you know some of my background......I wish "messaging" had a tone of voice sometimes, ya know what I mean?!?! Sometimes the written word and the spoken word has two different meanings.....sorry for the confusion.......Also, why would I get pissed at you or anyone here when I'm the one asking for help.....I'm VERY thankful for ANY help I get.....and thank you for taking the time out to answer my questions!!!! I appreciate it greatly!

Yeah, I've seen the IQDM module in the service manual and I have a few carts like that here at the course but I don't have one of those modules.....I wish I did though!

Any luck on finding where I can possibly get an IQDM??? I bet I could get the course to let me get one.......

[Flying Ace]

Hey Guys. Just searched for this problem, found your thread and registered to reply. I have a very similar problem with my 2004 IQ 48v. But with mine the power glitch happens at completely random times. It has never done it in just 50 feet though.

With mine we can be driving for a mile or more and it will all of the sudden do like you describe BUT mine always happens when we are going full speed with the pedal on the floor. And it beeps until the cart comes to a complete stop. It happens when my wife drives it and when I do. No difference.

Took it to my dealer and he connected the IQDM and there were no faults logged. He had a mechanic clean and tighten all of the connections and still no fix.

Here is my situation:

I can duplicate what mine does so if you have an IQ cart you will see and hear exactly what happens to ours. All you do is get going on a flat surface at full speed with the pedal on the floor. Now don't let up on the accelerator until after the cart comes to a stop. Now just move the Forward/Reverse rocker switch to the neutral position. As you will see and hear the zero speed protection (I think) will engage and make the cart motor brake to a quick stop while simultaneously beeping until it is stopped.

That's what happens but when it does we can keep the pedal on the floor and after the cart stops there will be no motive power, sound or movement until we let the pedal all the way up. After that you can push the pedal and the cart will work perfectly for a random amount of time. Maybe 20, 30 minutes, maybe an hour, maybe not again that day. But always (so far at least) only when at full speed with the pedal floored.

It has been doing this for a few months. The dealer has been no help and he called Club Car and they didn't have any ideas. But here are mine:

Since I can duplicate it with the rocker switch just a few minutes ago I put a new one in. We'll see if that fixes it. If not my next thought is the MCOR because it always happens at full pedal deflection. Could it have a worn out spot that causes a fluctuation in the electricity and triggers the Zero Speed sensor?

After that I wonder if a faulty connection/wire/etc. could cause it.

Keith, does this help narrow anything down that you think I could try? Greg, does this seem like a similar description of your event? You say it only beeps three times but are you going slow enough that it just happens that three beeps are all that can happen before the cart is stopped?

I hope this helps figure out both our problems.

Bill

[gaminde]

I have an idea whats happening here when your controller is set for peddle up (something) you must come to a complete stop for the cart to start moving again (i turned this off in my cart) so you have either an mcor dropout, solenoid dropout, obc dropout (to controller) or keyswitch dropout. you will need to come to a complete stop for this to re actuate.

I noticed this when I was backing my cart out of its stall real slow I was letting the pedal up but not quite all the way I would switch to forward and press the pedal and nothing would not go until I let the pedal up all the way then it would go again so I disabled it with the curtis software.

[Keith]

Hi Bill; and welcome to GCF.
The first thing I would suggest to you is that you might want to wait on changing out the F/R switch. I agree with "LG's" reply that one of those components is what is causing your cart to stall out. If you have a volt meter, there are some quick trouble shooting tests you can do (when the cart is stalled) that will help you to zero in on the failing component.
You also mentioned that the CC dealer plugged in their IQDM to check the controller memory for "faults", but there weren't any? The reason for that is that all minor "faults"
will clear out of the controller memory once the accellerator peddle is cycled. If the dealer would have left the IQDM plugged in and you drove your cart around until it stalled it would have logged the "fault" as long as you did not lift your foot off the accellerator peddle.

[Flying Ace]

Thank you both for the kind replies and welcome. You are right Keith, the rocker switch didn't do a thing. But...I just happened to be on the cart very near my CC dealer yesterday when it stalled so I dropped by. The tech that knew my problem happened to be there. He plugged in his IQDM and we took off for a drive. We opened it up and after about 45 seconds it did it! The IQDM said solenoid. He also said that it was possible that a short in something other than the solenoid could possibly make the resistor on it overheat and do it. But I bought a new solenoid and resistor and swapped them out this morning. We have taken two long drives today without any hiccups. It did it seven times yesterday on about the same length of drive so my hopes are high that the solenoid was it.

LG, thanks for that list of possibilities. If it acts up again I'll go through that list from least expensive to most. Is the controller itself not a suspect guys? If not I take it the order would be: keyswitch, MCOR, OBC.

A general question I have is how often do solenoids go bad? Or, for that matter, how often do all of the suspect parts usually last? And you should know we live in Peachtree City, GA. and drive our cart a lot all over town. So I need to be knowledgeable about what is likely to fail.

http://www.peachtree-city.org/

Thanks for the help and I'll let you know how it goes.

Bill

[Keith]

Bill;
Thank you for the update and I am glad to hear that your cart trouble has been resolved. If it does start to act up again I would like to suggest to you that you wait on randomly changing suspect electrical components. Just post a new thread that describes in as much detail as possible what is happening. The members on this site will be happy to help you trouble shoot the problem so that you only need to replace whats needed to correct the problem.
You also had a question about how often do "solenoids" go bad?
That's a really good question, however, a very hard one to answer without a very lengthy response that would include design, materials, and application. The nutshell version would be that it is an electrical switch that is designed to transfer electrical current demand. The two major things that would cause it to fail are excessive heat, and the number of operating cycles. Every time we start and stop our carts the solenoid cycles closed/open. You said your cart was a '04, and if that is the first time the solenoid had been replaced I would say that it achieved it's designed life expectancy.

I hope this is helpful to you!

Keith

[Flying Ace]

Thanks Keith. I can see this forum is going to be a great source of info. I try to do as much of the work on my cart as I can and the advice here will really help me to do it right!

So far so good with the new solenoid. I didn't realize how much it impacts the operation of the cart.

Bill

[BugZ]

Starter solenoid usually, I didnt read any of the posts. so hope you got it. These sillynoids seem to fail in a strange way on these carts. took me a week to figure it out myself. it tested fine. but when oi replaced it. the problem was solved. struck me as odd. but apparently the sillynoid shorted out in a strange way inside. it would go,, and i believe as is heated up the wiring inside it fused out. peace

[Flying Ace]

Right on BugZ. I was betting it'd be the MCOR since it is so expensive. But no, the solenoid was it. Working perfectly now.

[gaminde]

more information on this thread the older cars 2003 2004 are missing a diode in the run/tow switch circuit or if it has one it could be bad, this diode causes feedback to the controller, and it drops the circuits out