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Hey, searched all over different forums and can't find my exact problem. Here goes. Cart was running just fine. Stopped to chat, applied the brake, when I went to leave, cart wouldn't move. Batteries are good, solenoid clicks when I press on accelerator, makes the soft clicking noising when selecting from forward to reverse, reverse horn sounds, checked all wire connections, and reset obc(if I have even have one) or at least I did the procedure, and took a test light and all wire connections I could see checked fine. The cart has done this twice in the last month but fixed itself by just coming back to the cart and trying later. Can anyone direct me to a site that has some sort of layman's troubleshooting guide. Thanks everyone.
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It may be the solenoid causing a problem.
Take a 6ga wire and jump the 2 large terminals when you have the problem, if that solves it, replace the solenoid. -
Doug, you're the man. Don't know much about wires but, lightly connected the two large posts with a wire used for connecting the tv cable to a TV and lo and behold the golf cart moved forward. Going to order a solenoid tomorrow. Thanks again. You saved me time and a bundle. Bill.Comment
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Good to hear!
Let us know how it all turns out after you get it fixed.Comment
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Well, the new solenoid arrived from buggies unlimited. My invoice says for club car 1999 and up. Part number is 120-20 and then there's an 1120 printed on the post a little further down. Put in exactly like a took the other solenoid out. Anyway, I'm worse off than before because now the solenoid doesn't even cllick when I push on the accelerator. I can cross wires post to post on solenoid and cart goes forward. My gut feeling is either wrong part or bad solenoid. Any suggestions? Thanks, Bill.Comment
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You may have a 48v solenoid, call BU and get a confirmation.
You can tell if the solenoid is good by metering the small posts, there should be resistance or continuity across them, if it is open the solenoid is bad.
The large posts will show open until it is powered up and then it will show closed.
You can also put 36v to the small terminals and it should close/click.Comment
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Just thought of one more thing, take a voltmeter and put it on the 2 small posts, turn on the key and hit the throttle. You should have 36v across those posts.Comment
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The only thing I could have done wrong is when i put the wire back on that connects the two small posts together. I will switch the connections when I get home. Sorry to be electrical illeteratebut, how exactly do you check the continuity across the two small posts.Comment
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If there is a small wire looking thing with a lump in it, that would be a diode.
It should have a silver band on one end, that has to point to the positive side or it won't work.
If you don't have a controller, you may not have a diode, so just ignore the above if it doesn't apply.
Continuity means there is a connection, you can use an ohm meter as it should have some resistance. As long as it's not open it's OK.Updated by dougmcp; May 24, 2011, 03:17 PM.Comment
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Thanks for the quick reply. I have the wire with the diode on it. I will make sure it is correct. I put the old solenoid on the cart and now it will not click when I press the accelerator either. Must have dorked up spomething royally. When I connect the two large posts and step on the accelerator it hauls. Thanks for all the help so far. Bill.Comment
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I have the diode in my hand. It has a black lump in the exact middle of the wire under the semiclear plastic wrap. There is also a red colored connector on one side. The solenoid doesn't click regardless of the position I wire the diode in. Also when I press on the accelerator, there shows no voltage across the two small terminals. Thanks, Bill.Comment
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Doug, I called BU but they were closed. The diode seems to conduct electricity both ways if I checked it correctly. Don't have an ohmmeter so can't check resistance across small posts. I think I must have gooned something bad when I hooked everything back up. I disconnected the power when I started and hooked it up only after I was done. Only thing different was no clicking solenoid. Think I'm awful close to looking for a shop. Very frustrating. Thanks again. Going on a trip tnight and will start messsing with it when I return on Saturday. Bill.Comment
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Forgot one thing. I don't know which small post is negative or positive. I'm thinking I put the diode wire on wrong the first time and fried something. Is that possible. Oh yeah. Checked all wired connections and all is good. Fuses good, too. Bill,Comment
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Time to regroup here, do you have a controller cart or a resistor cart?
Is this your wiring? http://www.golfcartsforum.com/attach...ng_diagram.gif
OR is this your wiring: http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/48vregen.jpg
OR is this your wiring: http://www.*******************/attac...890336vpw2.jpgUpdated by dougmcp; May 24, 2011, 08:47 PM.Comment
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Hey, been travelling all night, literally. Definitely not the stud monkey wiring. Wouldn't let me open the other ones. There's no big box with any wiring like on the stud monkey one. No tow switch either. No rocker panel either. It's a somewhat rotary shifter beneath your legs that is forward, neutral, and reverse. Thanks again for your efforts. Bill.Comment
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My input.
First off. At first you had a click and no go. How much charge did you have in the batteries? How old are the batteries? And How long have you gone with out charging the batteries in the past.
Second off. You replaced the solenoid, did you disconnect the power source when messing with that? While you were changing the solenoid out, did any of the wires touch or ground out for a period of time?
And third off, post up a picture of the engine compartment of your golf cart so we can see if you have a resistor setup or controller cart. Im not positive but I recall maybe that they had 2 of these options in the year 2000, however it will not be like the wiring diagrams dougmcp posted unfortunately since that one shows a 5 solenoid setup on the resistor diagram. It would have a v-glide. Does yours have this? (see attached image)RegardsComment
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Thanks for the input Matti. The batteries are less than two years old and hold a charge really well. I did disconnect the power before removing the old and replacing the new solenoid. I did however, apply power to the solenoid without frimly tightening all the nuts on the posts on the solenoid. I did see an arc after I reattached the power when I tapped on the accelerator. I tightened all the nuts on the solenoid posts then. Probably a little too late, huh. Anyway, both solenoids allow the cart to move forward when crossing the large posts and stepping on accelerator. I do have the item in the image you posted. It is on the drivers side in the battery compartment. I feel like I fried the solenoid, I just hope I didn't fry something else. Thanks for you input, Bill.Updated by dobbratacus; May 26, 2011, 06:25 AM.Comment
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Just ordered a new solenoid and a new diode. I'll put them on when they arrive. I will tighten everything before I apply power. The diode I ordered has the silver mark in the middle of the wire. Looking at the solenoid with the small posts in front, which loop goes to which post? Appreciate everyone's help. Been kind of fun doing something I've never messed with before. When I get too much in to it I'll take it to the shop and then take hell from my wife. That's life I guess. Sound good to you, Doug and Matti?Comment
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It's pretty hard to ruin a solenoid unless too much voltage was put on the coil.
The diode should have the stripe at one end which is placed on the positive side. It works like a check valve, it allows power to flow one way but not the other.Comment
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I'll have the resistance checked on the first solenoid before I go to use the new one. The way my solenoid was mounted on my cart was small posts facing forward. Looking down on the solenoid while facing towards the rear of the golf cart, which small post is the positive one? I'll be home Saturday and hopefully I'll be able to start messing with it again. Can't thank you enough. Please bear with me. Bill.Comment
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Here is the wiring diagram for your cart.Posted earlier by dobbratacus View Post
http://www.golfcartsforum.com/golf-c...g-diagram.html
This should answer any of your questions about the solenoids hook-up. I upgraded your account for you if you previously hadn't been able to view our diagrams.RegardsComment
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Matti, thanks for the upgrade and the wiring diagram. Unfortunately my cart is a 2000. The wiring diagram shows a soelnoid that doesn't look anything like mine. Mine has 2 large posts front to rear and two small posts side by side. I'm still not sue how to hook the diode up. It should be here in the next two days. Bill.Comment
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My information says that the diagram posted above is from 1988-2003.
A golf cart solenoid can be in many shapes but will have 2 large posts and 2 small posts, the small posts activate the solenoid and the large posts transfer the main power across the 2 large posts.
If you are not getting 36v to the small posts with the key on and throttle depressed then you have a control voltage issue.Comment
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Hey, my golf cart is home running well. The first solenoid I bought for repair purposes was still good . It was the diode that was bad. They found a bad microswitch in the v glide as well. Total cost to repair.......
65 dollars. Folks at plumquick in Indian Land NC did the work. Their operation is phenomenal. They take in motors from all over the world, rebuild them, and it makes your 48 volt 25% quicker and your 36 volt, 20 % quicker. I'll upgrade my motor next year. Thanks for the help everyone, out.Comment
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Glad its all fixed up, thank you for the update
RegardsComment
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Glad to see you got it running well.
The folks at PQ are pretty solid and have a good operation and reputation as well.Comment
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