Ezgo engine

[scot91]

I just bought this ezgo 2 stroke golf cart a few weeks ago and it did run fine then all sudden it barely ran I checked compression and it's only at 90 pounds of compression. Can anyone tell me what ezgo this is the plate under passenger glove box serial number 515954 manufacturer code B1689. Is this engine a 2pg or 3pg? The spark plug is on the side facing towards the gas tank the muffler is standing straight up right next to the gas tank. For some reason I can't post any pictures but I'll keep trying.

[golfcartg]

For some reason I can't post any pictures but I'll keep trying.

You may need to resize the images (length and width) to less than 1900 pixels (length and width) to post, you can do this by cropping them or taking a screen shot of each picture. The year should be within the manufacturers code, ending in 89 that makes your EZGO a 1989 which likely has the 3pg

I am attaching the service manual to this post, I would start by checking to make sure all the grounds are in place especially the ground strap that connects to the engine. These engines had issues with maintaining spark, here is a thread with some troubleshooting tips in regards to spark. Although low, your 3pg should still run with as low as 60psi. The automatic fuel/oil mixers weren't the best, so many people bypass it by premixing their fuel. There is a sticky in the EZGO gas forum that discusses the correct ratio. If you have any questions feel free to ask!

[scot91]

Thanks for the reply. The golf cart does run but it doesn't have enough power to move. When I got it I started to mix my own gas.

[golfcartg]

It's common for there to be some confusion with golf carts regarding whether they are truly idling, running, or just having the starter turn over the engine. To verify that the engine is actually running, check to make sure the exhaust is getting hot and the engine is revving up properly. If the exhaust stays cool and the engine isn't revving, it might just be the starter turning over the engine without it fully running.

[scot91]

[golfcartg]

EZGO had a history of using up their entire stock of parts before transitioning to newer versions. This means that during "switch" years such as 1989, they continued to install the older 2PG engines until their inventory was depleted before fully switching to the newer 3PG engines. Based on the pictures you've provided, it appears that your cart is actually equipped with a 2PG engine. Here is the correct service manual for the 2PG engine to help you with any maintenance. Like the 3pg, the 2pg engine in your EZGO can still run with compression as low as 60 PSI

[scot91]

Ok I found the tag on the engine and it is a 2pg. I got it to drive around the yard some but wasn't really moving. I checked the plug and it was wet and when I had it started some gas and oil was coming out of the muffler. I checked spark and it seems to be sparking good.

[Michael Eddie]

The presence of oil coming out of the muffler suggests incomplete combustion, this could be due to an overly rich fuel mixture or mechanical issues such as a carburetor problem. Sorting this out helps the fuel oil mix burn thoroughly reducing residue expelled from the exhaust.

The fuel mixture might be too rich meaning there is too much oil in the mixture. This can happen if the gas/oil ratio is incorrect, surprisingly these engines run on a "lean" mixture of just 128:1. For one gallon of gas it takes just one ounce of 2 cycle oil. Additionally a clogged or dirty carburetor can disrupt the air fuel mixture leading to inefficient burning and excess oil and gas being expelled. Eventually, too much oil into the muffler can cause residue to clog the exhaust and cut engine performance. If it gets really bad you could be forced to replace the muffler. It sounds like you have enough compression and spark, but providing a bit more backstory on the situation could possibly help shed some more light.

[scot91]

Ok I'll get fresh fuel and oil and remix it. How do I clean the muffler out? I'll also go through the carburetor and clean that. On this carburetor when I got the golf cart it looked like something was missing does something supposed to be in there I circled it on the picture.

[golfcartg]

In the red circle that is the pilot jet, not to be confused with the pilot screw which is right below the red circle. The pilot jets primary purpose is to supply fuel to the engine especially when it is idling or operating at low RPMs. The pilot screw works in conjunction with the pilot jet. It allows you to fine tune the air-fuel mixture delivered by the pilot jet. Turning the screw in (clockwise) typically reduces the amount of air, making the mixture richer (more fuel relative to air). Turning it out (counterclockwise) increases the amount of air, making the mixture leaner (more air relative to fuel). I am attaching the carburetor guide to this post.

Hopefully, the muffler isn't obstructed; you can remove it and use compressed air to test for any blockages. As far as cleaning the muffler goes, the only way I know of is to carefully burn it off. Build a large, stable bonfire and allow it to burn down until you have a bed of hot, glowing embers. Using thick gloves, a face shield and long handled tongs or a similar tool, carefully place the muffler into the center of the embers. Allow the muffler to heat up gradually until it glows red hot, which can take an hour depending on the size of the muffler and the intensity of the fire. This intense heat will burn off built-up carbon deposits and residue inside the muffler. Once the muffler is uniformly red hot and stops smoking for the most part, use the tongs to carefully remove it from the fire and place it on a non flammable surface to cool down completely.

[scot91]

Ok I just took the carburetor off and I was looking and there is no pilot jet in that hole.

[scot91]

Ok so I'm still having trouble. I put a new top end kit on I also did both crank seals after running it maybe 10 or so minutes the engine locks up then if you wait a minute it will go again. When it's running it runs amazing. Its also not keeping a charge. The battery keeps draining. I put a new regulator on also and the ignitor.

[Michael Eddie]

Ok so I'm still having trouble. I put a new top end kit on I also did both crank seals after running it maybe 10 or so minutes the engine locks up then if you wait a minute it will go again. When it's running it runs amazing. Its also not keeping a charge. The battery keeps draining. I put a new regulator on also and the ignitor.

Very good. Hopefully its just the starter/generator acting up, and its not the engine itself thats locking up. If the engine is locking up, you'll need to disassemble it to see why. I am attaching the starter/generator guide to this post with the charging circuit troubleshooting guide highlighted which should help you diagnose the battery draining issue.

When starting the engine the field coils are in series with the armature and the starter/generator operates as a motor. This circuit is controlled by a key switch, a fuse, an accelerator controlled limit switch, a solenoid switch and a forward-neutral-reverse switch. With the key switch in the "ON" position, battery current is available to the limit switch (I) which remains open until the accelerator pedal is depressed. When the pedal is depressed the plunger on the switch (I) is released, the contacts close and the ignition circuit is energized. Battery current then energizes the starter solenoid which closes the contacts. Battery current then flows through the Forward-Neutral-Reverse switch (2) to the starter. The starter now functions as a motor to start the engine.

The engine can be stopped either by releasing the accelerator pedal to the full up position or by turning the key switch to the "OFF" position. When the accelerator pedal is released, the plunger on the switch (I) is depressed, the contacts open, and the ignition circuit is de-energized.

GENERATOR (Fig. L-1)
When the engine is running, current is generated. This current is used for charging the battery and for the ignition system. Generator output is controlled by the voltage regulator at 14.5 V to 15.5 V, without regard to engine R.P.M. However, the charging current will vary depending on the condition of the battery. If the battery is fully charged, current is controlled at 3 to 5 amps.

WIRING -

Before making any tests of the wiring components, disconnect the battery cables from the battery posts.

Electrical test of the wiring for continuity may be made with a multi-meter tester. Set the meter selector knob to the ohms scale and check continuity between each circuit component as indicated. (see attached guide to this post) Example: If the cutout switch is open or if there is a hidden break in the wiring, the meter will read infinity.

[scot91]

Thanks for all the info you gave. I found another engine with the starter generator a guy was selling I put the engine in tested compression has 120lb compression. Hooked everything up got it started back it out tried to go towards and it barely moved I had to have someone push me to get it moving. I rode it for a minute then let off the gas won't go again. I put it in reverse it takes a little bit to get started then goes in reverse. When I was driving it around a little bit it back fired some. And also when I was trying to start it I seen some sparks in the exhaust. I tried to adjust the fuel air mixture still no difference. I tried 3 different carburetors new fuel filter I also took the air filter off to see if that made a difference still nothing. And also a fuel pump. What could be causing this?

[golfcartg]

The backfiring you've observed can sometimes unseat the crank seals resulting in erratic engine behavior like difficulty starting. Inspect to make sure the crank seals haven't blown out.

You've already tried multiple carburetors, a new fuel filter, and a fuel pump, which are good troubleshooting steps. However, the issue persists. Consider checking the ignition system for good spark again. Weak spark or insufficient fuel delivery can cause similar symptoms of poor performance and backfiring, so you're on the right path. Dump the fuel tank and replace it with some fresh new gas mixed at the recommended 128:1 ratio just to easily rule out bad gas or ratio.

Lastly, you've tackled a lot already, and despite your efforts, the results haven't panned out yet. Take a couple of days to rest and recharge. Sometimes, stepping away from the troubleshooting process for a day or two allows you to return with fresh eyes and a renewed focus, so give yourself time to regroup before diving back in.