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1986 36 volt Club Car DS switch and fuse wiring assembly

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  • 1986 36 volt Club Car DS switch and fuse wiring assembly

    Can anyone give me wiring schematics (I need exploded close up pictures plainly labeled) Of a 1986 36 volt Club Car DS 80 Amp Fuse area (above the charging port) and the Forward/Reverse switch area. This model has the older 5 micro switches mounted in the gray metal box.
    I have called Club Car and the only thing they could tell me is that they do not have a repair manual for that year. And when I do get something in a diagram that resembles this 86 CC, that area is so small and undetailed, you cannot tell one wire from the next. And when this mixture occurs, you get confusing wiring diagrams trying to integrate the years to make this 1986 CC make sense.
    I have attached the switch a fuse, and labeled them A-B-C-etc,......Looking to see which post (on the F?R switch) I attach the yellow solenoid lead and the positive key switch to as well.
    I am adding the exact wiring schematics for this 1986 36 volt Club Car DS (I think the 1987 model is an exact match).
    But as you can see the exploded image in those areas are not at all clear.

    There is nothing out there that is simple and plain. I have been searching on-line and researching. If anyone out there owns either an 86 or 87 CC model like this, you may be able to look and give exacts.
    Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
    Paul
    http://www.vintagegolfcartparts.com/...oid_wiring.jpg

    UPDATE: ALL Repaired. Got an actual parts list that color codes wires and utilized it with schematics to trace wiring to proper locations. Running and operating fine.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Retired Troop; September 18, 2012, 09:38 PM. Reason: Update info

  • #2
    Thanks for responding to my other post. I had to completely rewire my 86 DS and so I know what you mean about trying to read that wiring diagram. I had to study it for a long time to figure it out. Of course now I'm having trouble with my fuse and charger but my new wiring worked well for several months so I think I did it right. My cart is at the lake right now but I'm going up there this weekend to fix it and would be glad to review your pictures and send you back info on what wires go where if you still need the help. My cart didn't have a charging fuse or reverse buzzer when I got it so I bought all that new for safety purposes (kids and amatuers driving it! lol) and I also replaced all batteries, battery wires and power wires. I also installed lights and a voltage reducer. Had fun doing it but it was a pain at times. Let me know if you still need the help. Philip

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    • #3
      I would like to be sure I am correct. Boy did I have some weird issues. I had a couple of wires out of place, and then I had a wire I thought was out of place but was only just slightly loose (it was my switch wire attached to the positive side of my 80 amp fuse). I beefed up the wire size and tightened it down and it now works excellent.
      I thought I had mine completely fixed (I also added a voltage reducer as well to my lights), I was giving it a good test run up some of my mountain roads to run the batteries down all the way to recharge the whole bank evenly, I also noted that the motor was just not pulling hills like it once did (acting a bit weak) when I suddenly smelled burning and the cart just quit.
      I got off, lifted the seat only to discover that the no.5 negative battery post was red hot so that it melted the post, melted the wire insulation near that bolt attachment and it literally melted the soldering on top at the post and the post bolt just melted a hole down into the battery casing itself (see photos attached).
      A friend of mine who works for a company that uses a lot of electric fork lifts, explained to me that occasionally (though rare) a battery while being assembled, can have a weak solder connection down under the post where it attaches to the lead plates inside. And it may not be detected at first, but wear can make that connection weaker (my batteries were less than 2 years old). When that happens, the 36 volts(in my case) seeks out and finds the weakest resistance and heats hot, just as in my example.
      So now I am trying to figure out how to get the cart back into my driveway to work on it again, when I laid the post bolt back onto the area left on top of the battery post. When I applied the gas pedal, the bolt and cable heated red hot again, melted a little of the solder on the post again, and must have made a good connection on the post because suddenly, it was just like the old motor came back to life and pulled up my hilly driveway with purpose. And for that brief moment, I had a new strong golf cart.
      I called my buddy and told him what had happened, and he said he felt I had a bad battery with a bad post connection inside. I went got a new battery, new cable, attached it all up and as the Cajun Chief would say,,,,,BAM!!! works and drives like a new one, and the charge is lasting forever it seems, and the cart and its motor is working fabulous.
      This also made me aware of the importance of insuring all wiring is totally tight at every connection. I now have no hot wires, no burning smells and operating and pulling like a charm. I was gonna sell it but now, I am keeping the cart. Thanks to this event, Keith (who helped and even called me about some issues), I have a great golf cart. I just hope having one new battery with 5 two year old batteries doesn't hurt the overall life left to them all.
      I installed the reverse buzzer and it works well. The only questionable wire I still have is the yellow solenoid wire that comes up and attaches to the backside of the F/R switch (which is B in my picture). It was attached to the swivel F/R handle on the positive side. I moved it to the low speed blade below which is C in my picture. It is working, so I assume I have it correct.
      Anyway, I sure have learned alot about my wiring and cart, when I knew nothing before. The only little issue I have now is that the key switch sometimes needs wiggling to actually give power to the cart, turning the key off and on a couple of times will cause it to make good contact and operate. But that will mess with your mind when your trying to work on electrical issues as well (a volt meter was a must, and help from Keith).
      Anyway, I hope this helps, and yes please, confirm my wire contacts if you do not mind. Thanks for your response, and good luck.
      Attached Files

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      • #4
        I also own 1986 CC. A wiring schematic for that yer would be nice as I have spent months working out the wiring on the cart. Come to find out the A1 terminal was not as expected on the electric motor.

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